Argh... Am I ever going to be on time?
This year I knew I wanted cold frames, but didn't know I would actually pull of deploying them. That came relatively late, and the seed order went in late, and now I have cold frames at a time of year when they could be housing harvestable crops, but my seedlings don't even have their first true leaves!
I've added dates to the garden calendar to remind myself next year that that seed order must go in by January 2, in order to start the seeds mid-January (yes, even though it feels too early), so that transplants are ready to go in the box by mid-february, so that we could be eating the stuff RIGHT NOW!
Showing posts with label winter posts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label winter posts. Show all posts
Tuesday, March 12, 2013
Thursday, January 31, 2013
Cold Frames
We are planning to deploy a cold frame this spring. Questions abound...
Use of Cold Frame:
Am I going to use the cold frame in the spring to start seeds in flats? (maybe)
Am I going to use the cold frame to get a jump on spring crops like lettuce? (yes)
Am I going to use the cold frame to protect a fall crop and extend the harvest into December? (yes)
Location of Cold Frame:
Site should get a lot of light when the sun angle is low, it should be in a place we don't mind seeing a box in the middle of the lawn, the soil needs to be prepared.
Design of Cold Frame:
Lid has to be strong glass, like a shower door, or polycarbonate or some other plastic so my son doesn't lose a limb if he climbs on top and falls through.
Box needs to be big enough to contain a decent greens garden in the fall. (Like maybe 4x8?)
Box needs to be tall enough to contain collards and chard at full height in the fall. (Ideally 2 ft)
Box needs to be accessible for maintenance.
Lid needs to be light enough to lift, but heavy enough not to blow off (or it needs to be secured.)
Lid must be able to be propped for venting.
Soil under cold frame might be bordered by foam board - like a foundation.
Lid options abound at the local Habitat for Humanity Restore. Wooden sash windows for $5, a bank of them would be nice. A full length glass door (~3ftx6ft) for $20. A nice wooden sash window 3.5' x 4.5' for $5. A couple 3 panel sashed windows with sliders...
Managing the Cold Frame:
Indoor/Outdoor thermometer with min/max thermometer to gauge the effectiveness of the cold frame to determine when things can be set out in the spring and when we have to harvest everything in the fall.
Heat sources can be christmas lights or 100 W bulb.
Box can be lined with foam board.
Blankets or other insulation can be laid out on especially cold nights.
Dark colored milk or soap bottles can be used to absorb heat in the daytime and radiate it at nighttime.
Crops for the Cold Frame:
Spring: lettuce. lettuce. chard. lettuce. carrots. spinach. green onions. arugula.
Fall: lettuce. chard. collard. leeks. arugula. escarole. green onions. cabbage.
References:
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Organic-Gardening/2007-12-01/Garden-with-Cold-Frames.aspx
http://www.vegetablegardener.com/item/2504/cold-frame-gardening/page/all
Use of Cold Frame:
Am I going to use the cold frame in the spring to start seeds in flats? (maybe)
Am I going to use the cold frame to get a jump on spring crops like lettuce? (yes)
Am I going to use the cold frame to protect a fall crop and extend the harvest into December? (yes)
Location of Cold Frame:
Site should get a lot of light when the sun angle is low, it should be in a place we don't mind seeing a box in the middle of the lawn, the soil needs to be prepared.
Design of Cold Frame:
Lid has to be strong glass, like a shower door, or polycarbonate or some other plastic so my son doesn't lose a limb if he climbs on top and falls through.
Box needs to be big enough to contain a decent greens garden in the fall. (Like maybe 4x8?)
Box needs to be tall enough to contain collards and chard at full height in the fall. (Ideally 2 ft)
Box needs to be accessible for maintenance.
Lid needs to be light enough to lift, but heavy enough not to blow off (or it needs to be secured.)
Lid must be able to be propped for venting.
Soil under cold frame might be bordered by foam board - like a foundation.
Lid options abound at the local Habitat for Humanity Restore. Wooden sash windows for $5, a bank of them would be nice. A full length glass door (~3ftx6ft) for $20. A nice wooden sash window 3.5' x 4.5' for $5. A couple 3 panel sashed windows with sliders...
Managing the Cold Frame:
Indoor/Outdoor thermometer with min/max thermometer to gauge the effectiveness of the cold frame to determine when things can be set out in the spring and when we have to harvest everything in the fall.
Heat sources can be christmas lights or 100 W bulb.
Box can be lined with foam board.
Blankets or other insulation can be laid out on especially cold nights.
Dark colored milk or soap bottles can be used to absorb heat in the daytime and radiate it at nighttime.
Crops for the Cold Frame:
Spring: lettuce. lettuce. chard. lettuce. carrots. spinach. green onions. arugula.
Fall: lettuce. chard. collard. leeks. arugula. escarole. green onions. cabbage.
References:
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Organic-Gardening/2007-12-01/Garden-with-Cold-Frames.aspx
http://www.vegetablegardener.com/item/2504/cold-frame-gardening/page/all
Tuesday, January 29, 2013
60 degrees. January 29th
I think I'm solidly back in the land of Homesteading, and this blog should see more activity as a result.
Last week temps bottomed out in the single digits, and I actually got my act together to cover my enormous rosemary. I think it might have been enough protection to save it. Snow seemed much wetter on top of the sheet, on top of the tarp, and the rusty garden stakes I used to hold it all down tight to the ground held everything just as I wanted it.
The cold temperatures finally did in the parsley, which was still harvest-able as a fresh herb up to that point.
But today, a glorious 60 degrees! I uncovered that rosemary (but kept my system close at hand for the next cold snap). I took advantage of the soft air to prune the raspberries and level the asparagus fronds - both tasks had somehow never risen to the top of the fall to-do list. I also cut back the standing mints. Actually, I did the mint first, and enjoyed the menthol mittens while pruning the raspberries.
One week of 10 degree nights finally froze the ground. I'd say about 5 inches down. But the melt today and yesterday has pools of water all over the yard, not running off, and not able to drain through the frozen turf.
We ordered a cord of split oak over the weekend ($170). Unfortunately, the stuff isn't very dry. Today isn't helping. Despite the sizzles, the stuff can really crank out some heat and we are definitely looking forward to burning the wood instead of the oil as much as possible.
And that's January for you.
Last week temps bottomed out in the single digits, and I actually got my act together to cover my enormous rosemary. I think it might have been enough protection to save it. Snow seemed much wetter on top of the sheet, on top of the tarp, and the rusty garden stakes I used to hold it all down tight to the ground held everything just as I wanted it.
The cold temperatures finally did in the parsley, which was still harvest-able as a fresh herb up to that point.
But today, a glorious 60 degrees! I uncovered that rosemary (but kept my system close at hand for the next cold snap). I took advantage of the soft air to prune the raspberries and level the asparagus fronds - both tasks had somehow never risen to the top of the fall to-do list. I also cut back the standing mints. Actually, I did the mint first, and enjoyed the menthol mittens while pruning the raspberries.
One week of 10 degree nights finally froze the ground. I'd say about 5 inches down. But the melt today and yesterday has pools of water all over the yard, not running off, and not able to drain through the frozen turf.
We ordered a cord of split oak over the weekend ($170). Unfortunately, the stuff isn't very dry. Today isn't helping. Despite the sizzles, the stuff can really crank out some heat and we are definitely looking forward to burning the wood instead of the oil as much as possible.
And that's January for you.
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
February 1st
Monday, January 30, 2012
Saturday, January 28, 2012
Planting calendars
Starting to think about the new season... sort of...
My garden is in zone 6b. This calendar gives a nice graphic to help "picture" the flow of crops:
http://www.veggieharvest.com/Vegetable-Planting-Calendar/Zone-6-Vegetable-Planting-Calendar/
My garden is in zone 6b. This calendar gives a nice graphic to help "picture" the flow of crops:
http://www.veggieharvest.com/Vegetable-Planting-Calendar/Zone-6-Vegetable-Planting-Calendar/
Friday, January 6, 2012
Hoop house
Well, I had to give up on the hoop house. I don't know if it would have provided adequate protection against the cold if I had had a better bottom seal. I'm pretty optimistic about it though.
Without the bottom seal the temperature protection wasn't maximized, and wind kept getting under the plastic and lifting it up and off the arches. I couldn't keep up with recovering it.
So it was a good experiment and proved that, at least this year, we could have had decent greens and roots through December, at least. Stay tuned for the next experiment.
Without the bottom seal the temperature protection wasn't maximized, and wind kept getting under the plastic and lifting it up and off the arches. I couldn't keep up with recovering it.
So it was a good experiment and proved that, at least this year, we could have had decent greens and roots through December, at least. Stay tuned for the next experiment.
Summer blueberries.
Easier than pancakes if you can believe it.
Thursday, December 8, 2011
Still alive in a December garden
Saturday, December 3, 2011
25 degrees
It's our hardest frost yet and everything, including the lettuce, is still looking good in the hoops. Even the kale (unprotected) is still fine.
The endive and cabbage left out of hoops, might have survived the frost if it had not gotten completely chomped, probably by rabbits, right down to the stalk.
The endive and cabbage left out of hoops, might have survived the frost if it had not gotten completely chomped, probably by rabbits, right down to the stalk.
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