Broccoli

Well, based on snooping around my neighbor's yard, we could be harvesting broccoli right now. Good to know!

File that under notes for next year!
 

Garden Calendar Revisions

Argh... Am I ever going to be on time?

This year I knew I wanted cold frames, but didn't know I would actually pull of deploying them. That came relatively late, and the seed order went in late, and now I have cold frames at a time of year when they could be housing harvestable crops, but my seedlings don't even have their first true leaves!

I've added dates to the garden calendar to remind myself next year that that seed order must go in by January 2, in order to start the seeds mid-January (yes, even though it feels too early), so that transplants are ready to go in the box by mid-february, so that we could be eating the stuff RIGHT NOW!

Cold Frame # 2

Unbelievably good timing. The drywaller got behind schedule in the workshop and we weren't ready for painting this past weekend, so the cold frame got moved up as the weekend project. (Plus the drywaller said he'd prime the whole thing for $100 and that will save a weekend's worth of work next weekend, so we said, uh, yeah!)

And... Voila!

The base box (below) is constructed of 2x12 boards salvaged from the property, lined with 2" foam board (left over from insulating the addition). (You can see the insulation installed along one of the base board walls.) That base box was placed in a trench so that about 3" is above ground on the uphill side.

On top of that is another identical box made of new 2x12 boards. Then a 2x12 riser (back) leans on two 2x12 triangles (end walls) to support two fabulous Habitat for Humanity Restore double-pane windows, $5 each. The windows are 42" across and 51" tall for a total cold frame size of approximate 4' by 7' (28 square feet.) (The white framed one, from the same source for the same price, is headed to a friends' house for her cold frame.)

We used gorilla glue to mount a foam window insulating gasket around the box. It's not a perfect seal yet, so work remains there.

I bought what appears to be a nice value - a wireless "Weather Thermometer" made by AcuRite ($15 at Lowes). The outdoor sensor is hung on the inside of the south wall of the cold frame (so it will not be in direct sunlight) and the base unit that reports the temperature of that sensor is either inside where I can keep an eye on it, or as pictured below, outside where it monitors the true outdoor temperature. So on this first day with a closed top, and soil that is still quite cold, the outdoor temperature is 60 and the box temperature is 74  (with a high of 75 and a low of 51 - when I installed the thermometer in the morning.) (Made me think about installing an automatic vent opener like this.)

The soil at the site was better than average for our yard, but a little stony, and with some pretty serious subsoil clay (red mottles and everything.) I decided to keep it, but added a significant amount of peat moss to help keep a loose structure, and then a full dose (4.5 cups for this 28 square foot bed) of Organic Garden-tone Herb&Vegetable Food (3-4-4). If I can get the timing right mid summer, or next winter, I will try to add a good load of compost.

I already posted about my seed starting enthusiasm. Now I'm using the cold frame to help those seeds get good sunlight since I still haven't invested in grow lights. So far, even with gray days, it seems to have been enough help to prevent them from getting embarrassingly leggy. The seeds are all still in their starting trays. I'm not sure the soil in the cold frame is warm enough for germination, and until it warms up I'm not sure I can count on the box staying above freezing, so I am a little nervous about direct seeding in there, although given the cost of seed, it's a relatively low risk venture.)

Overall, and as always, I wish we had gotten an earlier start. But with these cold frames deployed, it will certainly be possible to plant 2-3 inch diameter lettuce starts by the middle of February, and to be harvesting lettuce by now. This permanent installation is going to be full of food through the shoulder seasons and potentially the winter for years to come.

Beet Seeds

Last week I soaked beet seeds overnight, then set them in a wet paper towel for about a day and a half. The first root shoots were poking out when I planted them and they were up in 2 more days. Definite time saver.

So I planted around September 1, they should be ready by November 1? We'll see!

January 27th update: Forget about it. I don't know if it was the temperature or lack of light or groundhogs, but those things never got taller than 4 inches. September 1 is way too late.

Lessons Learned: Roots

I was pleased and surprised with the success of beet and carrot crops this year. It's all I attempted. I haven't exactly run the numbers, but I suspect these crops are the highest $/square foot crop I grew.

I'd like to try rutabega next year. (Friends recommend it.) I'd also like to do a greater variety of beets, and a lot more carrots. I'd also like to try celeriac next fall.

Carrots were impressive in the spring, but taste better in the fall, so I really want to plant more next fall.

I should also plant these fall seeds a little earlier than I did. But I planted them July 31! How much earlier can I go? Maybe this year was just so gray and rainy that they didn't grow well.

Lessons Learned: Beans and Peas

Bunny problems cut the pea harvest way back this year. I also had some trouble with germination. Next year, I'll plant fresh seed a little later. Peas came up this year on April 17th, Growing Degree Day 38. I figure I'll wait until this point next year - whenever that is - and then put the peas in the ground, pre-soaked.

I want the shelling peas for the sake of the sweet surprise inside, but the truth is, you have to grow a lot to get a dinner's worth. So we'll plant more snow peas and sugar snaps.

As far as string beans go, I'm pretty happy with a row of about 10 ft total. I'd like to try limas again, but they have to be planted as early as you can. I only got a handful this year.

I might try more pole beans next year. I had a good run with the scarlet runner beans, but they weren't good fresh, and I only had 5 ft. Maybe I'll try another variety in addition to the scarlet runner beans, one that would be good as fresh string beans or just fresh beans.

Lessons Learned: Herbs

I've been meaning to write good notes on what I learned this year and what I hope to do differently next year. I'm starting with herbs.

First, I didn't plant as much variety as I'd like to next year. Part of the problem is finding a good spot for perennials. I'll start with the herbs I did plant and then note the ones I want to add.

1. Mint. There is a big stand of mint that escaped pots near our fence line. It's an unknown variety, but well-established. I used it all summer in lemonade. In pots in the vegetable garden I also planted apple mint, spearmint, and your basic mint mint. The apple mint had impressive, large, lush leaves, but it never grew too many stems so I don't think I harvested it for anything. Maybe it will grow better next year. The spearmint got kind of overwhelmed by a nearby marigold and a dock, so it's not as strong as it might have been. But the mint mine is outrageous! It must be 3 feet in diameter spilling out of it's pot. And that's AFTER I whacked it way back to dry it's leaves.

Keeping the mint in terra cotta in the garden seemed to work well. It got watered whenever everything else did. One great thing about the mint is that it dried so well. Hung by the handful in a paper bag for about 2 weeks, it smelled amazing as I pinched the leaves off.

2. Basil. This is one crop that must be started indoors as early as possible and maybe planted out in a cold frame. And buying a few starts from the greenhouse is a good bet too. It took 'til June 30 before I could harvest any decent amount.

I planted 4 lettuce leaf basil and at least 12 regular plants. I ended up with about 8 large ones, with the ones out in the vegetable bed growing strongest. The lettuce leaf basil looked cool, but didn't have a great taste.

A friend, Gene, recommended a method of harvest that should maximize yield. I'd like to try this next year.

1)      Basil growing tip from Ecology Action, Nov. 2010, p. 3.

a)      Once basil reaches 4-6 growth nodes and is at the point of flowering, cut back to 2 growth nodes (starting from the ground up), as long as there are enough leaves for photosynthesis.

b)      Water well after each cutting.

c)      After 7-10 days, it should be ready for second cutting (again, just at the point of flowering).

d)     Cut back to 1 growth node (counting from the main stem).

e)      Repeat every 7-10 days until plant starts to get leggy, around the third cutting. Then cut back to 6-8” and wait until it re-grows.  ( 2 weeks).

f)       Repeat the entire process – taking 3 or more cuttings.

g)      Cut back to 8” and repeat process.

h)      Of course, let some go to seed to save seed.

I converted most of the basil to pesto, especially when pulling the plants toward the end of the season, and froze it in 1/2-1 c portions. I definitely could have used more. I feel sure we'll eat everything I've frozen over the winter months.

I also planted a few starts in between plants I expected to get large, like tomatoes. The problem is, the basil is pretty slow growing and by the time the basil was ready to grow it was already shaded by the larger plants. So basil needs dedicated garden space, at least a square foot per plant. I would, ideally, have 16 square feet of basil.

3. Cilantro. I have got to get serious about succession planting. This is one of my favorite herbs, so despite the fact that it bolts about a week after it reaches harvestable size, I'm going to try to grow it. It might make sense to grow it in a fertile soil flat, where the seeds can be sewn densely every 2 weeks. Maybe the shortage of soil would even stunt it a little - either that or make it bolt even faster!

4. Parsley. This was a starting year for parsley. I now have 3 strong italian flat leaf, but need to put in a curly leaf plant. I'm hopeful these will come back next year.

5. Sage. We discovered sage butter. Man, oh man. Finely chop 2 T of sage leaves and simmer in 1/2 c butter and then sprinkle in nutmeg. My smallish sage plant from a local greenhouse thrived next to the garden fence. If it comes back next year I'd be very happy, but I'm not sure I can expect that.

6. Thyme. Eh. It's growing, but not stunningly. I think I should research varieties too. There seem to be a million and I have no idea which I'd like best.

7. Tarragon. I planted a very tasty tarragon, but allowed it to get crowded out, and I don't know if the weak plant remaining could possibly survive winter to come back next year. We have a very strong, but tasteless variety that does come back voraciously every year, so I guess I can be hopeful, but I should move it.

8. Rosemary. I had a 3 year old shrub in a pot that had moved in and out of the house with the seasons. We put it in the ground this spring. I'll bring two new starts in the house this winter, so we'll have those come spring if the shrub doesn't survive. My mom taught me to slip some sprigs up under the skin of a chicken before roasting it and we just love that. I'd like to find more uses. I'm betting rosemary butter is good.

9. Lavender. I have a small but strong lavender plant. They survive in the backyard of a neighbor, so I hope this one will revive next spring and get even larger.

10. Oregano. This plant was a runt 2 years ago, harvestable this year, and I'm hoping for stunning next year. Flavor is good, but boy does it disappoint when dry. There must be some trick to that.

11. Lemongrass. This was a fun experiment worth repeating. I'm told if I bring the clump in over winter, and set it back out next spring it will be much stronger next year. The stalks and leaves can be dried or frozen for soup or tea. It's the kind of thing you can't bring yourself to pay for, so it seems worth the small garden space.

12. Chives. I have a massive clump of chives. Garlic chives are taking over. I can barely see the regular chives any more. Perhaps next spring I can tidy this up, or maybe just start a fresh patch. They are really a crop that just keeps giving.


For next year:

1. Dill. Need to plant dill somewhere where it can reseed it self permanently.

2. Plants good for tea. I had calendula this year, but never harvested any to dry. Camomile? Lemon Balm?

3. Marjoram.

4. Savory.

5. Up for suggestions. Just leave a comment.